Biddy’s O’Barnes chefs, Chris McMenamin and Colin McKee, ignited palates with a six-course tasting menu celebrating the element of fire and Donegal’s wild spirit.
The exclusive Chef’s Table events this week left diners like Chef Brian McDermott awestruck.
Words by Chef Brian McDermott:
I was blindfolded and left in the dark in the middle of the Bluestack mountains.
But I was not alone as I was joined by 50 others for a dining experience titled Donegal in the Dark as we were taken on a culinary evening that was intimate and extraordinary.
Fire and flames greeted us at the door of Biddys O Barnes nestled within the breathtaking Bluestack mountains in Barnesmore Gap
Our evening began with a captivating aroma, the dry smell of turf wafting through the air, and only candlelight as a reminder of how people experienced Biddys 150 years ago when it first opened its doors.
Our table surprisingly had blindfolds with a menu resting on a sod of turf.
‘What have we signed up for?’ did enter my thoughts and similar commentary I could hear from our neighbouring tables. With that thought, the host for the evening and proprietor Megan Slevin, with that familiar attention grabbing spoon noise against a glass, has us silenced.
Megan warmly welcomed guests and quickly assured us the blindfolds had a purpose.
“Biddys on a daily basis serves elevated pub grub but we want to allow our chefs be creative with tonight’s tasting menu inspired by Donegal and the amazing producers,” was Megan’s opening words and that statement for me is powerful and was said with modest confidence.
“For your first course you will need blindfolds” – it’s a statement I’ve never heard in my 30 years as a chef.
“Please put them on now and our staff will serve this course, they will guide your hand to the handle of an expresso cup, but be careful as we have a crisp smoked haddock fritter on top which you will have to eat with your fingers and then sip on the potato and leek velouté with burnt leek oil.”
As I slowly moved the blindfold down over my eyes I couldn’t believe the change in the atmosphere as a soft quietness set in and sounds of people gently on the move could be heard. Then I felt my hand being placed on the cup by my server as the smell consumed me.
She whispered “use your other hand to eat the fritters” and with that instruction I could feel a warm crisp cylinder shape that without any hesitancy I bite into.
A burst of fresh smoked haddock flavour that was honest and clean and as I sipped the potato and leek from the cup everything became instantly wholesome.
It was the first time I’ve ever eaten anything blindfolded and it’s an experience I will never forget, I’m happy it happened in the depth of winter in Donegal
Brenda sips the amuse bouche – Leek and Potato Veloute
The remainder of the evening and menu did not require the blindfolds and I could see guests slipping them into handbags which I can only assume will be used to recreate eating in the dark at home.
As I sat at my table, the turf continued to catch my attention. Initially curious, I soon realised its significance, in the next dish of turf smoked duck served with duck fat eggy bread, Jerusalem artichoke, crispy kale and a roast duck tea.
This is quite possibly the best dish I’ve eaten in a very long time.
I’m not usually a fan of turf smoking but this was subtle and any typical thoughts I had of dryness of the smoke was quickly cut away with the deep and stunning roast duck tea that was rich and brothy. The role of the eggy bread was to absorb everything and bring this dish together perfectly.
The fish course of confit halibut, charred sweetcorn, shrimp, roast chicken sauce with charcoal tuile was intriguing and Megan, as she did prior to every course, explained each element again referencing the fire theme and the use of charcoal for its earthy and smoky flavour.
The fish in Donegal is always fresh as its landed nearby but it takes skills and care to cook fish perfectly for 50 people at the same time and confit cooking of the halibut was a smart move by the chefs and it paid off as it was translucent and tasty.
At this point of the evening I was feeling satisfied when an interesting Donegal collaboration presented itself in the unlikeliest of dishes an Old Fashioned Smoked Silkie Whiskey Sorbet. This brought together two more locals as Jamesand Moira of Sliabh Liag Distillery in Ardara and John and Linda from Little Mamma’s whom are ice cream makers in nearby Donegal Town. They were challenged by Biddys to create a sorbet worthy of serving and fitting the theme of the evening. There are times when you taste something and all your senses are awoken by the experience and this happened as spoonful after spoonful this delivered layers of flavours that controlled my entire sensory experience.
The main course was a true testament to the season, featuring local beef from Shane McConnell, an award-winning butcher. This fire flamed tenderloin captured the depth of winter, with genuine BBQ flavours elevated by a bone marrow crumb that made each bite feel indulgent and satisfying. Again turf featured within a delicious creamy potato mousseline and a beef jus that was complementary.
As we edged to the last course of the evening, unlike many tasting menus, I didn’t feel bloated at this stage or that I wanted this experience to stop. In fact I was committed to dessert and when it’s a tasting menu you don’t have to share your dessert as we all get one, that is my single biggest love of tasting menus. I’m not a fan of sharing my dessert.
Bread and butter pudding, dulce de leche and banana ganache with the services of Little Mamma’s being called upon again for a banana ice cream.
The last nod to the evening theme is of smoked malt biscuit custard with a char coal crumb. This was a dessert that was full of nostalgia and modern welcome twists of a classic pudding dessert.
As I noticed the burning candles were now half the size they were 4 hours previous I could only feel gracious to have been part of an unforgettable experience. And with that thought a hand on my shoulder appeared and I was met with warm familiar voice asking, “How’s your dinner? I hope you enjoyed it, how are you getting on “ as both chefs Chris Mc Menamin and Colin Mc Kee stood table side. I’ve known both of these two chefs for a long time and they are a partnership of excellence, and possibly the two most genuine and talented chefs in Donegal. Chefs Colin, Brian and Chris
Donegal in the Dark at Biddy’s O’Barnes on Thursday, November 7th
They have gained a deserving recognition for excellent food and hospitality at Biddys with a strong ethos of community and local. Under their stewardship and support from Megan and Aaron, Biddys has become one of the county’s most popular eateries with a loyal customer base.
Donegal in the Dark was a night filled with fire, flavour, and unforgettable memories,an experience we won’t soon forget.
Donegal in the Dark was held on Nov 7th and 8th 2024.
Brenda and Brian
